In Our Fall 2016 Issue

By Eric Steinman | Last Updated September 15, 2016
Share to printerest Share to fb Share to twitter Share to mail Share to print
hudson valley fall 2016 cover



For whatever reason (and I am certain there are many) my vegetable garden really faltered this summer. Its performance throughout the growing season landed somewhere between a vegetal letdown and a blight-tinged washout, and I should probably be laden with shame, but I am choosing not to be. The usually lovely Juliet tomatoes showed promise in June but began to wither and drop their semi-ripened fruit by the close of July. My dill bolted in the heat, and my chives drooped and became bitter, and my rows of carefully planted lettuce stood as tall as Lilliputian soldiers but barely prospered beyond an initial show of force. Even my kale, that indestructible and phoenix-like brassica, just decided to lay down next to the yellowing basil like something out of the 15th century’s Ars Moriendi, or “The Art of Dying.” However, my bush of shishito peppers didn’t seem to be fazed by the casualties that surrounded them, and they continue to jettison green bulbs every few days, and I do hold out hope for the mini-pumpkins of autumn that I have planted, despite my misfortune.

To be honest, I watered intermittently during a summer that was strikingly dry. I likely watered too much at times—saturating the tomatoes in the middle of the night. I should have amended the soil. I probably planted the rows too close together, and I was gone and preoccupied more than I care to admit. I think the garden witnessed my nonchalance and gave up the ghost. However, there is always the fall, and if I completely fall on my face this season, there is always next year.

Thankfully, as I stumble, the rest of the valley has remained steadfast and fecund. This issue, as always, reveals the characters and stories that make up the enduring spirit of our local food scene. We visit with the best farm stand around, Montgomery Place Orchards, and get some perspective on how the decades-old farm is adapting to Bard College as its new landlord (“The Inconvenient Farm Stand,” page 44). While the Valley is probably not the first thing many think of when they consider Mexican food, we travel to Newburgh, Poughkeepsie and Fleischmanns to get a look at how years of Mexican migration north has made these places hubs of traditional (as well as hybridized) Mexican cuisine (“El Norte,” page 52). We also check in with Smorgasburg Upstate, in Kingston, and explore Westchester’s “Little Empire” of food offerings (page 34).

So with fall comes the reckoning of the bountiful season that has just past (in my case, not so much) and a taking stock of reserves as well as intentions for the coming months.

I hope we have a great autumnal season on our hands and please pray for my mini-pumpkins— I need a miracle.

-Eric Steinman, Editor

KAS Spirits: Valley Gold, A New Twist on a Traditional Baltic Spirit

KAS spirits
Krupnikas, which is the amber-gold spirit produced by KAS spirits, is a multilayered infusion of spices, honey and grain spirit.

Early Bird Cookery, Put a Bird on It

earlybird cookery
What started as a private chef business in the city turned into a meal delivery service based upstate. Busy city folk can sign up for weekly deliveries of prepared meals on Early Bird’s commerce-...

Apple Crisp for Two

Sherry Blockinger, owner of Sherry B Dessert Studio shares with us her own version of apple crisp.

Brooklyn's Smorgasburg Plants Its Banner in Kingston

brooklyn smorgasburg market
The Brooklyn Smorgasburg Market operates in the fall and spring hosting 20 food and drink vendors (including craft breweries), plus a variety of traders in handmade design, vintage clothing and...

Foraging: A Love Story

Writer Laura Silverman scratching the surface of the forest floor
Though it's gaining momentum now, foraging is not new. This ancient practice taps into something deeply primal in all of us. Here we share ways you, too, can forage without confusing the delicious...

Wild Mushroom Soup

wild mushroom soup
Wild mushroom soup is creamy, flavorful and the perfect meal for a cool, fall day.

Ingrained: An Ancient African Rice-Growing Tradition in Ulster Park

rice harvest
Dawn Hoyte and her husband Nfamara Badjie purchased a farm with the intention of farming. Initially discouraged by the wetness, Badjie knew it was a blessing—a perfect place to grow rice.

A Little Empire Thinks Big: Mount Kisco's Outgrowth of Concept Eateries

A platter including Jamon + Manchego Croquetas, Smoked Salmon Open-Faced Sandwich, Moroccan Harissa Wings, Gambas Al Ajillo (all available at Little Drunken Chef in Mount Kisco), and an assortment of loose spices (available at Little Spice Bazaar in Mount Kisco)
A string of Westchester eateries are collectively known as Bonnie Saran's "Little Empire" of restaurants, which includes: Little Spice Bazaar, Little Crepe Street, Little Kabab Station, Little Drunken...

Eat Local Dining Guide

Hudson Valley Rib Fest will again host the Packanack Barbecue Club and their competition sauce.
These restaurants place a dedicated emphasis on using local seasonal ingredients in their menus, creating a distinctly Hudson Valley and Catskills dining experience. Visit them this season to enjoy...

Montgomery Place Orchards, The Inconvenient Farm Stand

Despite a loyal clientele of retail customers at Montgomery Place Orchards, farm life can be precarious, especially when you specializein heirloom fruits.

El Norte: The Makings of a Mexican Food Industry in the Hudson Valley

la kermes
In Newburgh, Los Portales’ port-wine-colored awning marks its place as one of about 10 Mexican restaurants now jostling for real estate in the city’s center.
Build your own subscription bundle.
Pick 3 regions for $60