Tuned in with Campbell Meats
This desire for connection was also one reason why Matt Campbell left elite New York City cheffing jobs (at Craft, The Marrow and Marlowe & Daughters) to open a nose-to-tail, whole-animal butcher shop in Dobbs Ferry. It was a risk. Not only was Campbell giving up a regular paycheck, but he’d have to persuade busy locals who shop at Whole Foods and DeCicco’s to make a special trip for meat.
But working in restaurants, Campbell had become increasingly interested in the ethics behind meat production. He felt that the slim profit margins of most restaurants prevented him from sourcing meat in the way he wanted. Campbell felt stymied by his lack of contact with customers. As he notes, “Every once in a while, in a restaurant, you can find that captain or a server who really knows about food, but that’s pretty rare. And chefs are dependent on these people to represent their work.” At his shop, Campbell not only controls how he sources his meats, but he also controls his outgoing message. “When someone wants to order 10 hanger steaks for a party, I can explain: There is only one hanger steak in a cow and we feel it’s important to buy whole cows.”